How many times have you said, "I do the custom-made shirts, savings as well." Here, you can not. It is not true.
from the beginning, trying to unravel now issues terminologia.In Italy, for simplification, we tend to use the term "custom" in the broadest sense, including all services, customization, and it seems right, since that the current language is precisely why we should aim, simplification. On the other hand, is right at least know what is the variety of interventions that draw on this' one name, because they are very different. Just to be clear, did you ever to notice a huge difference between your new shirt tailored and that of your friend, also custom, unable to understand why its the same was very much better and more beautiful? This is because, contrary to what one might believe, the variables that combine to form a shirt are many, many, virtually infinite, how many points are aligned on a straight line, and everything is made even more complex since these variables are not controlled only by you but by the artisan that manufactures, which in addition to the "head" also puts the "hands". Her position of privilege is absolute and in the work, keep in mind, he does not "see" the shirt as you do, creating a dichotomy of purpose within the same project that makes it, inevitably, a walk of health but a real war, between you and the artisan, and therefore must be led with an iron hand.
Incidentally, all these arguments are the result of desire, certainly manic, to achieve the best possible results and resulting from years of trying, testing, trials, errors and successes. The analysis conducted here is placed at a level well above the immediate appearance and I realize that may not be readily understood nor widely shared. Below I will try to summarize some technical and formal aspects that under no circumstances would feedback from those who are not sufficiently penetrated by a strong aesthetic sensibility (note: do not talk about fashion, but of tradition) and a casual mastery of the classical codes. To anyone who does not find himself in this description, I propose to seek accommodations in major brands, which, simply put, are concerned to make such choices for you, by charging exorbitantly this advice, but not be able to remotely approach that which we seek here to achieve. Still leave the solution to the poor in spirit.
Back to the distinction between the terminologies. As happens more or less in the tailoring (note: the tailors pack dresses, shirts, instead they make the shirt makers) are three levels, from bottom to top: the calibrated, the made-to-measure (custom made) and bespoke. In the first case we start from a standard size and will be corrected slightly in the main measures (neck, cuffs, sleeve length, at most darts). In the made-to-measure the level of customization is a bit 'higher, you start with a standard as close as possible to measures of customer, and it suits its measures, acting on larger radius than the caliber. This type of intervention sessions rarely provides evidence for the basic model, in fact already has a good fit standard. What will remain at the store (not artisan) is a folder with a note of the basic model used and the poor reviews, which here include the shoulders, chest, waist, armhole, length of the trunk. It 's like starting from an already made and to intervene with strokes according to our tastes. Will always be part of another. This is the practice used by most of the people who believe they have a shirt tailored, but did not have it. Or rather, in part, and that's the genesis of the difference between your shirt and the one friend who's got more beautiful. The third level is called bespoke, as previously discussed in reference to shoes by John Lobb, which represents the highest level in the scale of customization of clothing and accessories. In summary, we start from a blank sheet to create a model (of anything, not just a shirt) is completely new, starting from the sun to get poor reviews, correcting along the way, to meet the specific wishes of the client. It immediately creates a shirt of evidence (in fabric or not), a rough statue, only basted, not stitched, which means the test sessions, took the final shape. What will be the seamstress will be a pattern, designed especially with your name. That will be the blueprint for all your next order, which will need only to choose new fabrics and details. Store particular attention: during the first trial, because then the craftsman the change reluctantly. The reason why the bespoke principle requires a sustained amount of orders (or generate the impression of many in the future) because it is virtually the first shirt on the budget of the craftsman would be at a loss, given the time and effort to it dedicated. Its margins are starting to be sensitive by the sixth-seventh onwards. In England, Turnbull & Asser, Gieves & Hawkes, Hilditch & Key, all on Jermyn Street, necessitates a minimum of six orders to go to bespoke service. From this point on, then we will talk only of bespoke, the only true way to achieve results worthy of note.
Before talking about infinite variations, and tried to break down at least in key areas. The shirt is made in good substance:
1. tissue
2. Cutting
3. seams
4. Packages
5. cuffs
6. buttons
7. Accessories
The combination of these elements, among all possible shades, give birth to your shirt. Analyze them one by one in the next step.
from the beginning, trying to unravel now issues terminologia.In Italy, for simplification, we tend to use the term "custom" in the broadest sense, including all services, customization, and it seems right, since that the current language is precisely why we should aim, simplification. On the other hand, is right at least know what is the variety of interventions that draw on this' one name, because they are very different. Just to be clear, did you ever to notice a huge difference between your new shirt tailored and that of your friend, also custom, unable to understand why its the same was very much better and more beautiful? This is because, contrary to what one might believe, the variables that combine to form a shirt are many, many, virtually infinite, how many points are aligned on a straight line, and everything is made even more complex since these variables are not controlled only by you but by the artisan that manufactures, which in addition to the "head" also puts the "hands". Her position of privilege is absolute and in the work, keep in mind, he does not "see" the shirt as you do, creating a dichotomy of purpose within the same project that makes it, inevitably, a walk of health but a real war, between you and the artisan, and therefore must be led with an iron hand.
Incidentally, all these arguments are the result of desire, certainly manic, to achieve the best possible results and resulting from years of trying, testing, trials, errors and successes. The analysis conducted here is placed at a level well above the immediate appearance and I realize that may not be readily understood nor widely shared. Below I will try to summarize some technical and formal aspects that under no circumstances would feedback from those who are not sufficiently penetrated by a strong aesthetic sensibility (note: do not talk about fashion, but of tradition) and a casual mastery of the classical codes. To anyone who does not find himself in this description, I propose to seek accommodations in major brands, which, simply put, are concerned to make such choices for you, by charging exorbitantly this advice, but not be able to remotely approach that which we seek here to achieve. Still leave the solution to the poor in spirit.
Back to the distinction between the terminologies. As happens more or less in the tailoring (note: the tailors pack dresses, shirts, instead they make the shirt makers) are three levels, from bottom to top: the calibrated, the made-to-measure (custom made) and bespoke. In the first case we start from a standard size and will be corrected slightly in the main measures (neck, cuffs, sleeve length, at most darts). In the made-to-measure the level of customization is a bit 'higher, you start with a standard as close as possible to measures of customer, and it suits its measures, acting on larger radius than the caliber. This type of intervention sessions rarely provides evidence for the basic model, in fact already has a good fit standard. What will remain at the store (not artisan) is a folder with a note of the basic model used and the poor reviews, which here include the shoulders, chest, waist, armhole, length of the trunk. It 's like starting from an already made and to intervene with strokes according to our tastes. Will always be part of another. This is the practice used by most of the people who believe they have a shirt tailored, but did not have it. Or rather, in part, and that's the genesis of the difference between your shirt and the one friend who's got more beautiful. The third level is called bespoke, as previously discussed in reference to shoes by John Lobb, which represents the highest level in the scale of customization of clothing and accessories. In summary, we start from a blank sheet to create a model (of anything, not just a shirt) is completely new, starting from the sun to get poor reviews, correcting along the way, to meet the specific wishes of the client. It immediately creates a shirt of evidence (in fabric or not), a rough statue, only basted, not stitched, which means the test sessions, took the final shape. What will be the seamstress will be a pattern, designed especially with your name. That will be the blueprint for all your next order, which will need only to choose new fabrics and details. Store particular attention: during the first trial, because then the craftsman the change reluctantly. The reason why the bespoke principle requires a sustained amount of orders (or generate the impression of many in the future) because it is virtually the first shirt on the budget of the craftsman would be at a loss, given the time and effort to it dedicated. Its margins are starting to be sensitive by the sixth-seventh onwards. In England, Turnbull & Asser, Gieves & Hawkes, Hilditch & Key, all on Jermyn Street, necessitates a minimum of six orders to go to bespoke service. From this point on, then we will talk only of bespoke, the only true way to achieve results worthy of note.
Before talking about infinite variations, and tried to break down at least in key areas. The shirt is made in good substance:
1. tissue
2. Cutting
3. seams
4. Packages
5. cuffs
6. buttons
7. Accessories
The combination of these elements, among all possible shades, give birth to your shirt. Analyze them one by one in the next step.
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