Thursday, November 27, 2008

After Brazilian Wax Gallery

Bespoke?


We start from the beginning: what is bespoke? Just in these days in Milan there were two bespoke events that bore the name-something. So this is an example of how the term, now rather fashionable to be misused, sometimes associated with sgnificato on-and sometimes far worse, the general meaning of "luxury". Nothing could be further from the truth. Bespoke, applied to any discipline, from arts and crafts to information systems, means "from scratch", represents the highest level of cutomizzazione of a product. Bespoke, "speak for something," to give order for it to be made "by a client who, through dialogue with the craftsman develops a fully customized project. The term was born in Savile Row, London, a historic route from the masters of srtoria man, Henry Poole Hardy Amies. Therefore undeniable roots in the English tradition of late nineteenth century, which is what defines the contours of the imaginary tuttìoggi modern "Classic", a term, it also too often used in senses incorrette.Tornando fairs in Milan, said than they were misleading: how can showcase something that does not exist? The bespoke project as long as there is not finished, what you may consider are the materials, the skill of the craftsman, but also our willingness and sensitivity in translating an idea into an object. Only then will it truly ours. In fact
shirts, the difference between the spread "on misura" ed il bespoke è tanto centrale quanto enorme. Il servizio su misura parte da un modello (pattern) che lo stilista o il sarto ha gia disegnato, questo sarà poi replicato con le misure del cliente, che avrà una camicia uguale alle altre, ma con le sue misure. Il processo bespoke invece è finalizzato alla creazione, attraverso diverse messe in prova, di un modello personalizzato, che sarà poi trasformato in cartamodello ed archiviato come esclusivo del cliente. In questo processo di creazione artigiano e committente collaborano a stretto contatto, le loro visioni confluiscono. Le variabili in gioco sono infinite, centimetro per centimetro, tessuto per tessuto, collo per collo, polso per polso: il gioco è difficile, districarsi is difficult. But it's worth it. Clearly this service is not done by all, and not think of ordering a single "blue button-down", because you will laugh behind. The largest shirt makers in the world, from Finollo in Genoa, Turnbull and Asser, Gieves and Hawkes in Jermyn Street in London, provide access to bespoke service with a minimum order of 6 shirts at a price "fun."
In the following "lessons" will touch a topic at a time, trying to shed light on the pitfalls that lie behind each choice.

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