Powerdvd 7.0.1813 S/n

Custom-made shirt: the guide-Introduction-

How many times have you said, "I do the custom-made shirts, savings as well." Here, you can not. It is not true.
from the beginning, trying to unravel now issues terminologia.In Italy, for simplification, we tend to use the term "custom" in the broadest sense, including all services, customization, and it seems right, since that the current language is precisely why we should aim, simplification. On the other hand, is right at least know what is the variety of interventions that draw on this' one name, because they are very different. Just to be clear, did you ever to notice a huge difference between your new shirt tailored and that of your friend, also custom, unable to understand why its the same was very much better and more beautiful? This is because, contrary to what one might believe, the variables that combine to form a shirt are many, many, virtually infinite, how many points are aligned on a straight line, and everything is made even more complex since these variables are not controlled only by you but by the artisan that manufactures, which in addition to the "head" also puts the "hands". Her position of privilege is absolute and in the work, keep in mind, he does not "see" the shirt as you do, creating a dichotomy of purpose within the same project that makes it, inevitably, a walk of health but a real war, between you and the artisan, and therefore must be led with an iron hand.

Incidentally, all these arguments are the result of desire, certainly manic, to achieve the best possible results and resulting from years of trying, testing, trials, errors and successes. The analysis conducted here is placed at a level well above the immediate appearance and I realize that may not be readily understood nor widely shared. Below I will try to summarize some technical and formal aspects that under no circumstances would feedback from those who are not sufficiently penetrated by a strong aesthetic sensibility (note: do not talk about fashion, but of tradition) and a casual mastery of the classical codes. To anyone who does not find himself in this description, I propose to seek accommodations in major brands, which, simply put, are concerned to make such choices for you, by charging exorbitantly this advice, but not be able to remotely approach that which we seek here to achieve. Still leave the solution to the poor in spirit.

Back to the distinction between the terminologies. As happens more or less in the tailoring (note: the tailors pack dresses, shirts, instead they make the shirt makers) are three levels, from bottom to top: the calibrated, the made-to-measure (custom made) and bespoke. In the first case we start from a standard size and will be corrected slightly in the main measures (neck, cuffs, sleeve length, at most darts). In the made-to-measure the level of customization is a bit 'higher, you start with a standard as close as possible to measures of customer, and it suits its measures, acting on larger radius than the caliber. This type of intervention sessions rarely provides evidence for the basic model, in fact already has a good fit standard. What will remain at the store (not artisan) is a folder with a note of the basic model used and the poor reviews, which here include the shoulders, chest, waist, armhole, length of the trunk. It 's like starting from an already made and to intervene with strokes according to our tastes. Will always be part of another. This is the practice used by most of the people who believe they have a shirt tailored, but did not have it. Or rather, in part, and that's the genesis of the difference between your shirt and the one friend who's got more beautiful. The third level is called bespoke, as previously discussed in reference to shoes by John Lobb, which represents the highest level in the scale of customization of clothing and accessories. In summary, we start from a blank sheet to create a model (of anything, not just a shirt) is completely new, starting from the sun to get poor reviews, correcting along the way, to meet the specific wishes of the client. It immediately creates a shirt of evidence (in fabric or not), a rough statue, only basted, not stitched, which means the test sessions, took the final shape. What will be the seamstress will be a pattern, designed especially with your name. That will be the blueprint for all your next order, which will need only to choose new fabrics and details. Store particular attention: during the first trial, because then the craftsman the change reluctantly. The reason why the bespoke principle requires a sustained amount of orders (or generate the impression of many in the future) because it is virtually the first shirt on the budget of the craftsman would be at a loss, given the time and effort to it dedicated. Its margins are starting to be sensitive by the sixth-seventh onwards. In England, Turnbull & Asser, Gieves & Hawkes, Hilditch & Key, all on Jermyn Street, necessitates a minimum of six orders to go to bespoke service. From this point on, then we will talk only of bespoke, the only true way to achieve results worthy of note.
Before talking about infinite variations, and tried to break down at least in key areas. The shirt is made in good substance:



1. tissue

2. Cutting

3. seams

4. Packages

5. cuffs

6. buttons

7. Accessories


The combination of these elements, among all possible shades, give birth to your shirt. Analyze them one by one in the next step.

After Brazilian Wax Gallery

Bespoke?


We start from the beginning: what is bespoke? Just in these days in Milan there were two bespoke events that bore the name-something. So this is an example of how the term, now rather fashionable to be misused, sometimes associated with sgnificato on-and sometimes far worse, the general meaning of "luxury". Nothing could be further from the truth. Bespoke, applied to any discipline, from arts and crafts to information systems, means "from scratch", represents the highest level of cutomizzazione of a product. Bespoke, "speak for something," to give order for it to be made "by a client who, through dialogue with the craftsman develops a fully customized project. The term was born in Savile Row, London, a historic route from the masters of srtoria man, Henry Poole Hardy Amies. Therefore undeniable roots in the English tradition of late nineteenth century, which is what defines the contours of the imaginary tuttìoggi modern "Classic", a term, it also too often used in senses incorrette.Tornando fairs in Milan, said than they were misleading: how can showcase something that does not exist? The bespoke project as long as there is not finished, what you may consider are the materials, the skill of the craftsman, but also our willingness and sensitivity in translating an idea into an object. Only then will it truly ours. In fact
shirts, the difference between the spread "on misura" ed il bespoke è tanto centrale quanto enorme. Il servizio su misura parte da un modello (pattern) che lo stilista o il sarto ha gia disegnato, questo sarà poi replicato con le misure del cliente, che avrà una camicia uguale alle altre, ma con le sue misure. Il processo bespoke invece è finalizzato alla creazione, attraverso diverse messe in prova, di un modello personalizzato, che sarà poi trasformato in cartamodello ed archiviato come esclusivo del cliente. In questo processo di creazione artigiano e committente collaborano a stretto contatto, le loro visioni confluiscono. Le variabili in gioco sono infinite, centimetro per centimetro, tessuto per tessuto, collo per collo, polso per polso: il gioco è difficile, districarsi is difficult. But it's worth it. Clearly this service is not done by all, and not think of ordering a single "blue button-down", because you will laugh behind. The largest shirt makers in the world, from Finollo in Genoa, Turnbull and Asser, Gieves and Hawkes in Jermyn Street in London, provide access to bespoke service with a minimum order of 6 shirts at a price "fun."
In the following "lessons" will touch a topic at a time, trying to shed light on the pitfalls that lie behind each choice.

Catchy Birthday Party Title

ravioli di farina di castagne con pancetta, ricotta e mirtilli

L'aria di primo mattino profuma come un'idea.

Ecco un piatto non difficile e di gran sapore. Potrebbe essere una valida alternativa ai ravioli delle feste. La farina di castagne non l'avevo mai lavorata, il castagnaccio non mi fa impazzire, e quindi non l'avevo mai presa. Poi le mie amiche preferite me l'hanno regalata per il mio compleanno, insieme ad altre leccornie fantastiche, e così ho cercato un modo diverso di impiegarla. Il ripieno ha questi mirtilli che lo rendono particolare, ma non sono invasivi per nulla, come leggerete ne ho messi davvero pochi.

per la sfoglia

150 g di farina di castagne

75 g di farina bianca

2 uova medie

sale

per il ripieno

80 g di ricotta fresca

30 g di grana padano grattugiato

1 etto di pancetta (mezza coppata, mezza normale)

sale

pepe

8 mirtilli (anche congelati)

per condire

rosmarino

burro

Impastate la sfoglia dei ravioli, con le farine, le uova e il sale, lavoratela bene e lasciatela riposare mezz'ora. Nel frattempo frullate la pancetta fine e lavoratela con la ricotta e il grana padano. Aggiustate di sale e pepe e, da ultimo, aggiungeteci i mirtilli, che dovranno mescolarsi sì, senza rompersi del tutto. Fate riposare in frigo questo impasto. Stendete poi la sfoglia col mattarello (a gusto mio non sottilissima), fate delle palline with the compound of the filling and packed ravioli, as you like. Boil for 7-8 minutes, and toss with melted butter flavored with rosemary and, to embellish, you have some blueberry here and there. I do not put another dressing, but do it at your leisure. They are about 50 ravioli with these doses.

Dragon Ball -dragonball Zdojin Bulma

e fu così che ci provò pure adina

Surrounded by all the great can-can of macaroons that there was a time on the blog world, to follow the new book Mercotte , and these little buttons that sometimes peep on the web, Adina could not fall into temptation? It was a bit ' che ci volevo provare, in verità, poi la scorsa settimana in una conversazione con la mia amica Elena che mi chiedeva consigli per un dolce da dedicare in una serata di compleanno, l'illuminazione: perché non provi a fare i macarons? Potresti sorprendere tutti! E fu così che le ho tradotto dal francese un paio di ricette, una proprio di Mercotte, l'altra di Marina . Non so più se li abbia fatti, Elena, i macarons... ma in compenso ci ho provato anch'io. Dopo un primo tentativo quasi fallito, a causa del fatto che non avevo una bocchetta giusta per il sac-à-poche - mi sono venuti un po' bislacchi e grandicelli, mi sono attrezzata e ci ho riprovato. Il risultato è quello che vedete. Non ne è uscito solo uno bellino, eh! :-) Ce n'erano parecchi. Non avevo coloranti alimentari per abbellirli, e questi che ho fatto sono davvero semplici nel loro sapore. Ma credo ci riproverò, in fondo non mi sembrano molto difficili.

Ho incontrato solo un problema: entrambe le volte, ho provato a spolverizzare parte dei macarons con dei pistacchi tritati fini, la prima volta, e del cacao, la seconda. Ma quelli spolverizzati si son crepati sopra. Mentre gli altri sono rimasti sempre lucidi e precisi. Suggerimenti?

Ho capito che l'impasto base dei macarons si può fare in due modi:

1) a metà con meringa italiana e metà con gli albumi non montati;

2) senza meringa italiana, montando semplicemente gli albumi a neve.

Ho seguito la seconda versione, per praticità, ma vorrei provare anche l'altra. La ricetta ve la traduco, così l'avete in italiano se volete provare.

per i gusci

3 albumi (90 g)

210 g zucchero a velo

125 g farina di mandorle

40 g zucchero

per la ganache

120 g cioccolato fondente di buona qualità

30 g di panna fresca

8 nocciole

Serve seguire degli accorgimenti necessari e importanti:

uova : the egg must have been separated from the yolk a couple of days before and should be kept in a tupperware in the fridge. With the remaining egg you can enjoy a pastry, as here.

powdered sugar and almond flour : should be mixed well and forced into the sieve to remove impurities and coarse crumbs.

macaronnage : a term that is used to mix the egg whites with the mixture of ground almonds and powdered sugar

crôutage : time for the rest of the macaron before baking oven

: ventilated.

trays : Bring 2-3 trays stacked one on top, which is important for the success of Colleretto and housing in order to avoid cooking too, annoyed.

(for a more in-depth reports, I refer you to two blogs, which are perfect)

we go. After two days I've been separated from the yolk in the fridge, pull out the egg whites a few hours before starting, so to work at room temperature (the temperature only affects the speed of assembly, not on success). With a mixer, mix well the sugar and the almond flour and then proceed to sift dropping them off on a tray. Whip the egg whites, adding a tablespoon of sugar and a little after the rest of the sugar in half mount. The album will be ready when the bec d'oiseau will, they say in French, that is, the geometry type of bird beak. If the installation fails, you have to remember to add a pinch of salt or a drop of lemon. Transfer the egg whites in a bowl and gradually pour in the mix almond flour-sugar, working together for a few minutes with a silicone spatula, making the movement from the edges to the center, without breaking the egg whites too, and taking care to mix the ingredients well (macaronnage). At this stage you can add a bit of food coloring, matcha, saffron, cocoa ... thus become colored). Bring hours of a sac-a-few bocchettina with a round of about 1 cm in diameter. Prepare two baking sheets you are going to overcome each other, and line with parchment paper. To make her feel attacked, the corners of the parchment paper glued to the pan with a bit of dough macarons. Preheat the oven to 150 degrees. Pour the mixture into the sac-a-little and then squeeze on the pan to get regular circles of dough spaced symmetrical and not too close together (you can also draw circles on parchment paper first, so as to make them all equal). Let rest for half an hour now. Here's who makes sleep even one night, and who fails totally crôutage. It serves to inflate more the macaron. I found myself good with about 30 minutes of rest. Bake for 13 minutes. Get out and let it cool a moment, before removing the shells. Come off easily, if not try to cook another minute or to put the paper directly over the oven with macarons (glued) on a cold surface.

For the filling: in a double boiler, melt the chocolate and cream. Stir in the chopped hazelnuts and toasted (if you want, otherwise it will be a chocolate ganache). Let cool. Total cooling, the ganache becomes a little 'sound, so I decided to put it in macarons when it was almost cold, but not totally, so as to be able to crush the well between the two shells.