guidato dal tuo profumo... Driven by your scent to climates which enchant, I see a harbor full of trees and marine sails still tired from the wave, while the scent of green tamarind that circulates the air fills the nostrils and I , mingles in my soul to the shanty. (C. Baudelaire)
How vain? (Thanks to Roberto Granatiero, I took this photo with Ferran Adrià)
Baudelaire those lines were written there, and were now more than ever
Identity Golose . Vegetables and perfumes the two wires, with a touch of saffron yellow, or Sardinia Abruzzo. What colors, movement, energy. Perhaps my favorite (of those seen) was Alajmo, maybe that was the first, and any openings such as the beginnings of love stories, always give more bounce in and passion. Perhaps that is truly one of the largest, sophisticated and hard-working perfectionist. I would like to tell you the two words and a recipe for Alajmo. To make him practice the theory of meaning hold perfume, spray a fat, a sugar, spray it on a plate to cool, so to trap the flavor. Bring to room of crostoli mist of cinnamon, it smells and the environment. Presents two recipes emotional color and techniques and procedures: the dumplings red, white and green vegetables dressed, and the Shakespearean scallop squid, scallops without. Being and not to be. The technique from which the gnocchi is the extraction of gluten, method used in the East to make the seitan, then hydrated with the broths. I'll tell you: it mixes quickly flour, salt and water, and they work hard, as he explains,
a box of pencils, if shaken violently, the pencils meet an order. Then put the dough in a planetary with ice water, so the starch is separated and falls. It gets a mixture that adds flexible, in small pieces, of beetroot, cooked and rinsed in green broccoli, cooked and dried, and the potatoes. With these three bodies, covering the filling of the dumplings, buffalo ricotta balls mainly
fat component that has a longer casting . Beautiful, sprinkled with melted butter, inviting
scioglievoli . Then presents the scallops on squid salad of fennel and a creamy scampi. You had to see what did not. He has reconstructed, from calamari reduced cream, a nearly elastic dough which has the shape of the scallops. And a sprinkling of dill over. I make it easy here, but I think I understand why the cuisine is truly an art.
I would not ever have been missing from Pierre Hermé, perhaps the greatest pastry chef in the world. Less exciting, so like a schoolboy who has to tell his lesson learned quickly, he lacked a bit 'instead of that feeling that moves in his creations. He made two cakes, even a Entre (translated = between, halfway between gâteau et dessert), dessert and a real, Emotion extravagant. Ingredients funny, sweet and assembled with the decision: vanilla, pepper, badian, yuzu, and fresh grapefruit confit, allowed to enjoy the juice and zest, Entre is a compromise of taste, a sweet dish, as in Italy is made tiramisu. Over an English cream mixed with mascarpone, sugar, fresh wasabi, which has a flavor Subtil, he says, than paste. And yet on grapefruit peel and cube guimauve green tea matcha (a type of marshmallow, is frequently used in France). He says c'est simplement dessert, pas quelque chose de sophistiqué , it's all about taste rather than presentation. If he says so, I looked very beautiful ... :-) The desserts were instead of shorts at various layers, which sold in November and December in his boutique, jelly saffron, mashed potatoes with lemon (in this regard has invented this cake for a book by a friend who will be released soon on a different use of the potatoes, if I understand correctly should be called Patates :-)), grain, which is Mouille, résistant here contraste avec la texture et des pommes de terre. ends with the rejection of the theory of those who say you can not associate more than a certain number of taste ... it's just personal taste. Greets, run ... absent. Too bad ... is over so ...
And then, we do not say a word about Oldani? :-) Who reads me knows I have a passion for Oldani. Better, I agree with many of his ideal choice, though maybe not all. And maybe sometimes I find it so naive in his statements, I can only think that it is, instead, maybe smarter? It was now put on the dress of simplicity, most of the obvious in some respects, but yes, let's freshen up the tradition, then pity that only he manages to make a booking now for October 2009. Master of marketing, took care lines of dishes, glasses, cutlery, spoons with a fork, and if someone dares to ask for a fork at D'Or, he answered that it is okay that sdentellato spoon. I Oldani is nice, the tone has a little '
adineschi . :-) It offered during his presentation to Identity Gourmet cookies soft saffron in a packaging
very fine and nice perfumes, as chic. Back to perfume, in a circular shape, such as O D'Or and the spiral on its rice (n
on risotto, risotto is as heavy as that word, and yet he escapes half smile) to Milan, but without all the more. Free fry, because who wants to make modern and innovative cuisine, must remove and not add, the seam (bone) added just above the end, to invoke the tradition, without getting dirty, and then not in the saffron rice, but put on it, thick and golden pistils with long path to mark a path still growing. To finish with a soft sweet made of just two cookies soft sponge cake with saffron, interspersed with a creamy gorgonzola cheese and spicy chutney of apples and pears. Why, Oldani teaches us, the first should contain a note of sweet, sweet and a salty note.
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